Greetings:

First, I am very happy report that crossing Queen Charlotte Sound was not only uneventful, but it was mesmerizing riding the gentle swells coming in from the Pacific. Keeping with the purpose of this trip...a shake-down cruise...we discovered an interesting mishap while tied up to the dock and plugged into shore power in Port Hardy. We noticed that not only were the cabin lights dim but the charge to the battery bank was significantly less than it should have been...and that, after being plugged in, and running all day with both the solar panels and the windmill generating power. Calls started early AM to the marine center in Seattle who e-mailed some trouble-shooting suggestions and were most perplexed themselves. While testing continuity, Suzan noticed that the main power lead off of the high output alternator had broken off and fused itself to the alternator casing...see picture. Anyway, Stryker Marine was within walking distance and they crimped a new lug onto the 00 wire (big fat one). All of which meant we got a later than desired start...1:30...to head across Queen Charlotte Sound.

Tuesday, the 29th, we departed Port Hardy, hung a left and motored northward through Goletas Channel for 23 miles, crossed the notorious Nahwitti Bar (which I read about afterward) before rounding Mexicana Point on Hope Island and greeted the Pacific. Michael was less than thrilled that there was not enough wind to sail, Suzan was napping, and I was ecstatic that it was going to be a smooth 25-mile crossing. The evening was exquisitely beautiful...the swells were 4 to 6 feet (brought back memories of kayaking down in Mexico years ago), the sky was a pastel palette of delicate, whispy clouds backlit by the sun, all the while the MaaMalni was rhythmically rocked by the gentle ocean swells. With 7 hours to play with my new camera, I was in my element. Played with new filters, black and white shots, probably setting some kind of record for megapixel s of Queen Charlotte Sound. So after all the trepidation brought on by reading various warnings of Cape Caution and crossing the sound, I cannot begin to tell you how relaxing it was to actually enjoy the experience. Some of you know just how white my knuckles can get. However, the night grew a bit long, and dark, as we did not drop anchor in Safety Cove on Calvert Island until 1:30 AM. I am sure the two other boats who were fast asleep were less than thrilled that it took us 3 times to successfully set the anchor!

Wednesday was again a motoring day, heading northward through Fitz Hugh Sound, into Fisher Channel and then westward at the northern tip of Hunter Island through Lama Passage with a 2 hour stop at Shearwater on Denny Island. We missing getting fuel by 10 minutes but with some more careful calculations concluded we had enough to reach Prince Rupert. Also missed buying a wifi connection at the grocery store so were forced to simply have a beer and some pupu's at the marina pub. We were entertained by a film crew from BBC who had been there for two days filming Bald Eagles. They had a little help as one of their crew zipped around the small bay flinging salmon into the water to entice the big guy down closer to the cameras. Not only had they had saved the biggest salmon for the perfect light as the sun began to dip behind the mountain, they had stitched a flotat ion device into its belly to keep it afloat until the eagle decided to swoop down from his perch on a nearby tree. But alas, the eagle took his sweet time, the salmon sunk, the light was fading, and the last little fish was flung into the bay. Right on cue, the eagle flew down, extended his talons, and plucked the fish from the bay and megapixels were flying everywhere. Also met a nice fellow who was kayaking solo from Anacortes to Skagway. He had his "boat" tied up to the dock not far from us and was treating himself to some "real" food, a hot shower and a soft bed. A most amazing journey when you consider just how many miles of shoreline along the Inside Passage is totally unfit for camping, hauling a kayak ashore let alone building a campfire to warm your fingers and toes. We motored several more hours north after leaving Shearwater dropping anchor in Powell Anchorage off Promise Island.

Thursday morning we weighed anchor at 7:00 and headed up a very narrow Reid Passage and put on about 80 miles before dropping anchor that evening at 10:30 in Coghlan Anchorage off Promise Island off the northwest tip of Princess Royal Island. One of the treats I brought on board is the recently aired "Planet Earth" series produced by BBC. I had not seen it when it was aired in the Discovery Channel and I join those of you who have seen it in saying it is probably one of the most stellar photographic epics ever made. You can procure it at Costco.

As we pour over the charts and various books on the Inside Passage, I've made a list of some of the more endearing terms various explorers used: Murder Cove, Gunboat Harbour, Poison Cove, Bottleneck Inlet, Swindle Island, Hurricane Anchorage, Remotesville Cove, Tombstone Bay, Grief Bay, Mantrap Inlet, Bitter End Cove, Alarm Cove...all which are food for the imagination.

Friday we slept in until 7:45 at which time I aroused my crew mates as we decided the night before to try to get to Prince Rupert. The "anchor alarm" had gone off twice during the night and guess who got up and informed the captain...yours truly. Guess an alarm is only as good as your hearing! Did a little routine M & R and pulled anchor at 9:30, re-entered Wright Sound and then hung a right and headed up the 45 mile long Grenville Channel (sorry Craig, we chose the time efficient route) which the coastal explorer book said oftentimes get very crowded in the summer as all commercial traffic use this fairly narrow channel. Not only did we not see more than 5 boats total...all cruisers...we had glassy water and blue, blue sky above the snowcapped mountains.

Instead of pushing on to Prince Rupert Friday night, Suzan suggested we take a detour to a place called Welcome Harbour located in the northwest corner of Porcher Island which is about a 20-25 mile from Prince Rupert. As the guide book aptly states, "It is well named--after a safe arrival you don't want to leave. The harbour is "composed of a labyrinth of islands, islets, and reefs---at least 100 in an area less than 5 miles square." We took off in the kayaks this morning at low tide and about 30 feet from the boat, I said...where are our life vests Guess my career as a kayak guide needs some refining. After retrieving the vests we were treated to a slice of gunk-holing heaven...all the little islets had very steep seaweed covered rock walls which at low tide made it seem like we were paddling through canyons. We paddled through a very narrow little channel to reach the ocean...which was totally flat calm...no waves, no swells...as peaceful a vista as you could ever hope to see. After paddling a bit, we disembarked and hauled our boats up the beach and found ourselves on one of the most beautiful beaches...comprised totally of little rocks as smoothly polished as if by a rock tumbler. Our pockets were so full of rocks upon our return had we gone in the drink we would have put our life jackets to a good test. I could have spent a week there!

So here I sit in the cockpit of the MaaMalni with my power cord stretched up the stairs from the galley and a flashlight under my chin so I can see the keys which I still don't have committed to memory. We refueled here in Prince Rupert early evening and then walked into town for dinner, provisions and such. Bought the latest issue of the Canadian magazine, Modern Dog, as I was drawn to one of the articles mentioned on the cover: How to Break into Canine Commercial Work. Think it's only fair Wally start supporting me. We plan to leave the dock at o'dark thirty to head across Dixon Entrance and overnight in Ketchikan where the first acquisition will be a tide/current book for SE Alaska. None for sail at marine store here in Prince Rupert.

If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. Loren Eiseley

Linda

MaaMalni Alaska Directory